McConnells Mill State Park, PA

By Lisa Kaufman

Slippery Rock Creek runs strong and deep through the gorge that bears its name. Above and below the centerpiece grist mill, the waters teem with stocked trout and smallmouth bass. Easy to dismiss as a day-use picknickers’ park, adventurers know McConnells Mill as a do-it-yourself, bring-your-own destination – no concessions, camping, boats to rent or food to buy; no commercial outfitters. In short, it’s perfect for DIY fly fishers, kayakers, hikers, climbers, photographers and birders to relish the ruggedness of this glacial gash formed in the melt of the last ice age.

"It's just got an allure," says Rob Walters, a fly fishing guide and assistant program director for Pittsburgh-based Venture Outdoors. "It reminds me of being out West – the seclusion you can get to, the vistas, the thick, forested areas that are really pretty.

"Quite honestly, it's one of the most all-around parks I know. It's one of our favorite places to take people just because of the beauty."

Two areas are sanctioned for climbing and rappelling: Rim Road across the creek and upstream of the mill and more rigorous Breakneck Bridge, downstream. Ranger Sandi Broskey relates how a caller, asking about climbing spots in the park and being told there were two, responded, "Two? There's fifteen hundred!"

Bob Value, who wrote Classic Rock Climbs No. 26 McConnell's Mill State Park, Pennsylvania, says to find out-of-the-way spots, go to Rim Road. "Get to know the local climbers, learn the secret handshake," he adds, laughing. For bouldering, there's Island Block's east face, Birthday Boulder and Ross Boulder. For roped climbs, Island Block's north face has popular routes. Try Peter Pan for a classic climb. The boulders are rated V0 to V9, Bob says; roped routes range in difficulty from 5.0 to 5.13.

As for paddlers, with stretches of Class II to Class IV whitewater in Slippery Rock Creek's mad rush to the Ohio, life vests are required, helmets recommended. Kayakers launch behind the park office for the 1-mile dash to the dam. The last rapid before the dam is called Maytag, says Ranger Sandi. "It'll throw everybody out of the boat" when the waters are high. The portage around the dam is mandatory, but easy. A mile-long stretch of rapids leads to Eckert Bridge, where the creek widens and calms down for a mellower 4-mile run to Harris Bridge.

The park features 11 miles of trails. Huge, slick boulders flank the rugged trail from Hells Hollow to Eckert Bridge, part of the North Country National Scenic Trail from New York to North Dakota. Round many a bend are the waterfalls that lighten a hiker's weary step – Alpha, Breakneck, Kildoo Falls. Downloadable online guides to two geology trails can be printed as the perfect back-pocket companion – chatty and informative when you gotta know what that odd-looking formation is, and blissfully silent when you want to sit atop a crag and enjoy the serenity of an unspoiled hemlock ravine.

Where it’s at: About 45 minutes north of Pittsburgh; from I-79, take exit 99/US 422 west to US 19. Follow signs to the park.

Contact: www.dcnr.state.pa.us/stateparks/parks/mcconnellsmill.aspx or (724) 368-8811 (rangers at big sister Moraine State Park nearby field calls)

Digs: Moraine State Park has group camping and a backpackers shelter, www.dcnr.state.pa.us/stateparks/parks/moraine.aspx (724) 368-8811; Rose Point Park Cabins & Camping, (800) 459-1561, www.rosepointpark.com (campsites start at $25, cabins start at $75)

Grub: Pizza Joe's, Portersville, (724) 368-8557 (ohmigosh, the pizza)

Brew: North Country Brewing Company, Slippery Rock, www.northcountrybrewing.com or (724) 794-BEER

Gear and Outfitting: O'Donnell's Sports Supplies, Portersville, www.odonnellsports.com or (724) 368-3418